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Notes by Jackie Shore - Kennel Swanwillow.

Jackie is a very experienced and well known Breeder and Championship Judge of Dandie Dinmont Terriers but also has the gift of communication. These notes were used in conjunction with the Caledonian Dandie Dinmont Terrier Judges Educational and are therefore not as detailed, but are to be used when practicing going over your own or friends Dandies.

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When the class enters the ring always give them time to settle, move them around the ring so that you get a general view of each dog.  When you examine each dog individually, use the same approach and method each time so the exhibitors know what to expect of you and you won’t miss anything and have to go back to it later. Don’t rush but don’t be painfully slow get a system going that suits you and your concentration and things will flow naturally.

Examining the Dandie at close quarters is very different from being a ringside judge

Examining the Dandie at close quarters is very different from being a ringside judge. First look at the dog in profile. Is the outline typical of the breed? Is it masculine for a dog feminine for a bitch? Does it stand four square easily? Does it present a balanced picture?  Now go around to the front. Does it stand straight in front with its weight distributed evenly on the feet?  Examine the head first, open the mouth gently, does it have a scissor bite, top incisors overlapping the bottom, are they of good size, do the canines interlock and again of good size and are there premolars and molars. Is the jaw strongly made and well muscled? The nose should be large and black and the muzzle deep, nothing snipey about it.  The stop should be deep as this helps to give the forehead the right shape, the skull which is domed and should fill your palm, muzzle to skull proportions 3/8 to 5/8, the width between the ears should measure the same as from eye to ear.  Eyes should be set low in front, Set wide apart, round, large but not protruding. Dark hazel, giving a melting expression, if too light it gives an open expression or if black a hard look which is untypical.  Are the ears set low enough, they should be on the same level as the eye.  They should hang straight at the front, is the leather fine enough or too thick, too large which makes the head look clumsy or too small so they fold and don’t lie properly. They should have a fine feather the same texture as the topknot.

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The Dandies' topknot is its crowning glory; it should be of silky texture not woolly, with the whiskers being of slightly harsher in texture.  It should not be out of proportion to the Dandies head, remember it is the size of the skull that matters. Next examine the neck, it should feel strong and well muscled, not a long neck, set well into the shoulders, which are laid back but not overloaded with muscle.  Are the elbows tucked in and front legs are straight down to tight feet that are well padded and larger than the hind feet.  Does the breast bone come well down between the front legs and forward of the shoulder, it should not be hollow here, nor should it be abnormally low.  

Behind the shoulder is a slight downward curve with a corresponding rise over the loin, it should flow easily without a  sharp  rise  It is supported by a ribcage which is carried at least 2/3 of the way back and should be well supported by muscle.  This is crucial to the co- ordination of the front and hind movement.  Does the topline finish in a downward curve to the tailset is it too steep or too shallow or does it finish the topline correctly?   Does the tail look the right length for the dogs body, 8 – 10 inches is it curved like a scimitar is it free from twists or kinks.   Hind legs should be slightly longer than the front, with a good bend of stifle, and short hocks. When viewed from the rear set wide apart though not unnaturally so and parallel. Hindquarters well muscled.  When moving away you should see the pads of the feet, legs parallel, not hopping or weaving, if it does it needs moving slightly faster, don’t be afraid to ask the handler to move the dog again.  Front movement again should be straight and parallel, if moving fast the feet will converge in the middle but should not platt or cross.  Always watch sideways movement too, does the dog hold its topline and tailset correctly and does the movement really cover the ground without short stepping or tummy tapping, it should be fluid no hopping or weaving being propelled from the pelvis and hindquarter and not being pulled from the front.

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Coat -  is it of good quality? out of coat or short of coat? does it have the required 2 inches of topcoat? does it have the wrong mix of topcoat to undercoat?  is it a good colour?  is it crisp to the touch?

Temperament should be happy outgoing, inquisitive, friendly, puppies are often shy and reserved until they mature.

Exhibitors have done you the honour of showing their Dandies under you for your opinion, so when placing the dogs be positive in your mind which dog is placed where, do not dither about wondering who to place reserve have it clear in your mind before pulling anyone out, and do not, after a lot of thinking, change 1st and 2nd places around this shows very negative thinking. When writing your critique give your reasons for placing one dog above another, this will explain to exhibitors the thinking behind your placings which might not be obvious from the ringside and, if justified, exhibitors will enter under you again.

Which Dandie Dinmont Terrier would you put up?

In conclusion, always remember what the Dandie was bred for. If it has a soft coat it would suffer when out hunting in the rain and cold, if it is unsound it couldn’t catch prey and if it has a faulty mouth it couldn’t kill it efficiently. Remember this when faced with two dogs in a class - one is a heavy, ponderous dog with a soft coat and undershot mouth, the other is a fit game typical dog who has a certificate from the vet because he has been castrated, which would you put up?